Articles Tagged with tailor

Train Right To Maintain Proper Fit . . .

If your tailor does their part, be sure to do yours- Frank

Yes, that would be my quote.  One of the most important subjects to be discussed when it comes to creating your own style is fit.  Fit is a big deal as emphasized by me as well as those one million times more popular than me and my lonely old blog. If you are wise, looking to hone your “craft” and have a great tailor who doesn’t charge you half a month’s rent to have your clothes fit perfect, you understand it is necessary to be as physically fit as possible within reason.  And do emphasize within reason. Not everyone is lucky enough to hit the gene pool jackpot and dazzle the world with their declarations of being a physical phenomenon. Some of us are chunky, some of us are skinny, some of us can’t describe our respective physique but you can work with what you have. Exercising and eating the right kinds of food will help. There are tons of reputable resources on-line to assist you with your goals. For those who think I am saying one has to be yoked in order to look good in your clothes, you are absolutely missing the point. You have all the tools at your disposal, a little bit of effort and encouragement from friends will help you achieve your best you. Think of your clothing and your body as a relationship. You’re there to compliment each other and enhance each other’s happiness.

I have a pair of Brooks Brothers chinos that are bright green.  I love them but I know last summer they got a tad tight around the waist.  Well, maybe a bit more than a tad but that wasn’t my tailor’s fault.  It was mine. They fit perfect before but I slacked for whatever reason. I know you feel me. You don’t want to be in a situation when you throw on your favorite dress shirt or chinos or suit for that matter and the fit isn’t right because you may have slacked on your eating habits and training regimen.  On that note, eat your favorite foods, drink your favorite adult beverages in moderation and exercise regularly.  Your clothes will thank you!  Until next time, jal ga!

 

*Supplemental picture, left: Dress shirt by Nautica, pants by Nautica

*Supplemental picture, right: Blazer by Stafford Collection, dress shirt by Geoffrey Beene, pocket square by Feather And Smith, watch by Invicta

*Music vibe: Swimming-Summer Soul 

Something About a Good Suit . . .

I don’t know, a good suit just, you know, you can take on, you can take on the world in a good suit, you know? –Conor McGregor

I put this blog together in an effort to help those looking to improve their overall appearance, clothing-wise without spending an arm, a leg or some other extremity.  One subject I stated in a earlier post I was going to touch upon is having a good tailor.  I have a great tailor!   Sylvia was referred to me by a friend.  You can buy top of the line clothing and if the fit is horrible, there isn’t anything in the universe that can save you except a tailor.

We have all seen the before and after pictures of a suit, a blazer or a sport coat that was transformed from well, nice try to aesthetically pleasing.  From experience, you feel the difference and what goes without saying, see the difference.  We are aware there are three kinds of fit when it comes to the aforementioned; classic, modern and slim fit.  The wonderful thing about having your tailor on speed dial or having the luxury of dropping by anytime, if you happen upon and purchase a suit, blazer or sport coat in the classic fit, your tailor will clean that mess up!

As far as the modern and slim fit go, unless your body has perfect specs for either style, you need to get them tailored!  In the following pictures, you will see a Nicole Miller slim-fit suit in black and an Alfani slim-fit suit in grey.  Nicole Miller suits are not on the website but one can find them almost everywhere on-line and at brick and mortars.  I have owned Nicole Miller clothing in the past and absolutely loved them.  For the price (I paid around $125 as suit separates at Burlington Coat Factory), you cannot go wrong.  The quality is excellent.  This isn’t a four figure suit and I am not going to wear it for maybe more than thrice a year, if that!   Alfani is a private brand of Macy’s.  Macy’s also has under its umbrella of brands: Tasso Elba, Bar III and Club Room.  I have had great luck with the fit when it comes to their Alfani performance and slim-fit dress shirts.  For the suit, also purchased as suit separates, they were on sale for a total around $210.  If I got these when they weren’t on sale, we are looking at a price tag around $650!  SCOREBOARD.  The quality is excellent!  If I had been lucky enough to find one in navy blue, well that would have been showcased here too.  I had both jackets taken in as well as had the sleeves shorten.  The Alfani pants were perfect, the Nicole Miller pants were not.

For suit pants, I wear a 33/34 inch waist and prefer a 30 inch inseam for a quarter break.  For my dress pants, I indulge a 29 inch inseam because I prefer no break.  Both styles of break, I am allowed to show off a little bit of sock as well as show off my style of shoe.  In addition, I wear flat front pants only.  Pleats are a matter of personal preference as well as body type.  If one is a bit bulky, pleats may be the way to go.  I am lucky my Korean genes afford me good great legs, hence why I wear flat front pants.

Now back to the tailor.  If you have no referrals from friends (well, are they really your friends?), do some research just as you would when searching for clothing bargains.  Ask around, talk to people, read reviews, make an assessment and pick your tailor.   Something that goes without saying but I will type it, communicate with your tailor!  Make it your pleasure to create a great relationship with him or with her.  Tell them what you are looking for.  Be receptive to input from your tailor.  This is a business partnership where both parties benefit.  When you become a regular, your tailor will take care of you and you should do the same.  If you are absolutely satisfied with their workmanship, not only tell them how happy you are, refer potential clients to them.  I make it a point to tell my friends and co-workers.  Sylvia has tailored my suits, my blazers, sport coats, dress shirts, etc.  The pants on my Nicole Miller suit had to be hemmed.  I bought the wrong length because my mind was locked on denim length.  She didn’t charge me for the hem.  It was a token of appreciation for my business and one I was thankful for.  So, what are you waiting for?  Go find that tailor who will assist you achieve your style!  Jal ga!

Blazing a Trail . . .

Is something one can literally do when when deciding the right combination of shoes, trousers, shirt and blazer.  The blazer beginnings originated with the Lady Margaret Boat Club  – founded in 1825 – at Cambridge University’s St. John’s College adopted a gentlemanly sporting jacket with which to row in, in a vivid scarlet cloth to distinguish themselves as part of a team. Thanks to the bright shade, the term ‘blazer’ evolved; not quite a suit jacket, designed as a stand alone piece that can be worn to add a dash of formality. By the time the annual Henley Royal Regatta rolled around in 1839, lavish stripes as part of the uniform had become part of the blazer’s DNA, each team’s outfits designed to be easily distinguishable from one another.  Just as lexicon over the decades has experienced a semantic drift, the blazer, one may say has experienced a fashionistic drift. 

As previously stated in my first post, Creating Your Own Style, one the of the classics every man should own is the navy blazer.  In addition, once comfortable with the navy blazer, look to expand your color palette.  For starters, search for colors that are synonymous with a particular season.  Secondly, there are materials that are most suited for these seasons.  Cotton, linen and seersucker are the go to for Spring and Summer.  Corduroy, flannel and tweed are the go to for the Autumn and Winter.  If I told you how many blazers and sport coats I owned, you probably believe there is a disorder for people like me explained in detail in the DSM-V.  For the purpose of this particular writing, I will speak of 7 blazers and 4 sport coats I purchased.  It sounds as if I spent a decent amount of currency but I didn’t.  I spent a total of $374.88.  There are 7 retail store brands, 2 (what are considered) low end brands and one high end brand in the group.  Roll call as follows:

  • Stafford Collection cotton sport coat (pink) $44.99
  • Stafford Collection cotton/linen blend sport coat (windowpane khaki) $44.99
  • Merona cotton blazer (khaki) $29.98
  • Merona cotton blazer (olive) $29.98
  • Merona cotton blazer (navy) $39.99
  • Mossimo flannel blazer (charcoal) $45.00
  • Jach’s NY wool blazer (herringbone brown) $34.98
  • Croft & Barrow hopsack blazer (navy) $59.99
  • Chaps sport coat (grey plaid) $29.99
  • Chaps corduroy sport coat (tan) $39.99
  • Ermenegildo Zegna wool/silk blazer (grey plaid) $14.99 (Moya?!)

Yes, JC Penney’s again.  Kohl’s.  And Target?  Surprisingly, Target has improved their quality of clothing.  The 3 Merona blazers are half-lined and unstructured.  The khaki and olive blazers fit perfect.  I am aware the chances of purchasing off the rack and having it fit sans alterations is a Buddhasend.  Of course the navy blazer has two problems.  The sleeves are a bit long and it has functioning buttons.  Having this tailored would most likely cost more than the $40 investment.  So what is one to do?  Improvise, adapt and overcome.  I wear this very casual.  And what I did with the sleeves in some many circles is frowned upon.  Flip-cuff dress shirts are perfect for this situation.  For me, it works well and it may work for you.  I am not attending a formal gathering.  I’m indulging an atmosphere where the patrons dress whatever they are feeling.  What one will gather by having your fundamentals down, you will be able bend the narrative to suit what you are trying to stylistically achieve.  It is high risk, high reward.  If you are a go-getter, do the same with the way you dress and adjust accordingly.  In the the photo to the right, one can observe how I rolled the sleeves of the blazer and folded the shirt sleeves over the them.  This is the outfit I wore when I was attending my friend’s baby shower (Yes, apparently men can do this nowadays).  Simple, very casual and it works.  There will be no formal wear time for this blazer.  I have a structured Croft & Barrow (Kohl’s brand) blazer as well as a Christian Dior double-breasted blazer (with brass buttons) for such occasions.

Ten of the purchases above were made with coupons and sales.  The Ermenegildo Zegna, I found on Ebay and it is second hand.  I won it for $2.99 so who cares about $12 shipping?!  Not I. And as seen in the featured picture on the debut post of this blog, looks pretty damn good!

ezegna

Designer clothes as well as cars, exercise equipment and houses (to mention a few) are merchandise one can purchase used.   There are thrift shops all over the world housing high end clothes just waiting for someone to have their Master’s in Frugalnomics bring them home.  This blazer fits me well because I had the proper alterations done.  And, this is one thing you will need and I will discuss in the near future.  You need a good taylor tailor.

The options I have presented will help boost your dress game.  I am cognizant there will be individuals who will express their displeasure in some of the aforementioned brands.  Quality is important.  The Target brands I touched on briefly are of good to very good quality and most certainly not a tier or two below high end.  You want the opportunity to wear your clothes for all occasions, often or not so often.  Taking care of your clothing regardless of the price point is very important.  It cannot be stressed enough.  At the end of the day, only you are aware of your spending limits.  Listen to everyone who has suggestions but remember, they won’t making any purchases for you.  Jal ga!

 

*Featured picture: Jacket by Christian Dior, shirt by Van Heusen, tie by Gucci, pocket square by Santostephano, watch by Stührling Original